Mountain Zebra National Park Cradock
Cradock – Karoo – Eastern Cape - South Africa
Should you visit Mountain Zebra National Park?
We turned off the R61 outside Cradock onto a gravel road and drove about 2 kilometres to Mountain Zebra National Park gate. Or rather we rattled and shuddered. Our teeth chattered, but not from cold. I might even have bit my tongue – literally. This was the worst corrugated grit road we had EVER travelled on – and we have travelled a few in our lifetime. It was even worse than the Kgalagadi roads.
Self-drive trails at Mountain Zebra National Park offer magnificent views
It was not our intention to visit Mountain Zebra National Park. Our last stop during our memorable road trip to the Western Cape was to be Camdeboo National Park before we drove back home but someone convinced us that we were so close, we may as well spend a night or two at the park.
We checked the distance and saw it was less than 150 kilometres from Camdeboo, Graaff-Reinet and Cradock, the respective towns outside these two national parks. We had come this far, why not use the opportunity to see it?
We had been warned that the road was in a terrible condition but one is never sure how bad it would be. At times gravel roads can be in great condition and at other times somewhat disastrous.
By the time we got to the gate after only a short 2 kilometres, we were very thankful that we hadn’t lost a few crowns or fillings. Upon a brief inspection of our car and caravan everything, at least superficially, looked intact.
Other campers ahead of us were decreasing the pressure in their tyres before driving into the park. General talk amongst all entering: “drop the pressure considerably – we hear the road is bad – if these two kilometres are a taste of what’s to come, oh boy!” to those exiting “this is the worst road ever – We’ve had two punctures – the contents of our fridge ended up on the floor when our fridge door fell off”.
Black Wildebeest at Mountain Zebra National Park
We filled out the Covid and indemnity forms, and as it is SANParks, produced our paid-up Wild Card for conservation and entry fee into the park. We then let down our tyres and ran the gauntlet at a relatively slow pace. Eventually we could not stand it any longer.
We slowed down to a snail’s pace of about 15 kilometres per hour, not that it helped. This was even worse than the first couple of kilometres. The rough road continued for about 8 kilometres. Just when we thought it would never end, out of the blue we had a respite - a stretch of beautiful tar road that effectively led us right to Reception in the rest camp.
The view from one of the self-drive trails in Mountain Zebra National Park
The Rest Camp at Mountain Zebra National Park
As we checked in and paid for our campsite, even without asking, we were given an email address to direct our complaints to about the condition of the road. That says a lot. Apparently the bad section of road does not legally belong to SANParks or it would have been in a better condition.
There is a restaurant and a shop at the rest camp. We ate at the restaurant one evening and had a delicious dinner. There was another couple enjoying their meal, but hardly worth keeping the kitchen open for two couples only. Presumably over weekends the restaurant is busier.
Campsite
There is a campsite that offers 20 sites equipped with 220V power points as well as a braai/barbeque facilities. The sites cannot be prebooked. We found a suitable site to park our caravan.
There are typical SANParks communal ablution, kitchen and laundry facilities. They were spotless, if somewhat aged.
Accommodation
Self-catering accommodation consists of family cottages or chalets, a guesthouse and mountain cottages. The guesthouse and two mountain cottages are located further into the park.
A Victorian style restored homestead from 1838 called Doornhoek is used as a guesthouse in the park. It overlooks a dam and can accommodate 6 people. It is situated on the property inside the park which was once the De Doornkloof farm.
Are there really Mountain Zebras at this National Park?
The burning question: The park is named after Mountain Zebras, but will you see them?
Whilst driving to reception we had not spotted a single zebra but we might have been somewhat distracted at the time.
The Cape Mountain Zebra population became endangered from the 1800’s. Thanks to the conservation efforts of farmers in the area when the land was proclaimed a reserve in 1937, small herds that still survived with donations of a few more zebras, the herds have expanded to over 350 animals. To answer the question, there definitely are mountain zebras and we even managed to see some of them.
Mountain Zebras
How is the Mountain Zebra different to their cousins?
Plain’s zebras usually have broad bands across the rear whereas mountain zebras have narrower tripes above their tail. Apparently there is also the absence of shadow stripes and their faces are more brown.
Are there other animals in Mountain Zebra National Park?
For a relatively small national park there are a number of wild animals such as blesbok, black wildebeest, eland, red hartebeest, gemsbok, buffalos and springbok. There are also predators in the park including hyena, cheetah, lion and caracal.
Black Wildebeest and Red Hartebeest
Kudu
Red Hartebeest
A Buffalo and a Drongo
The park is also renowned for its birdlife from smaller birds such as larks, wheatears and rockjumpers to eagles and buzzards.
Birds we saw:
Brown hooded Kingfisher
Namaqua Sandgrouse
A Bou-bou and a striped mouse having a standoff
Top birding tips from SANParks for Mountain Zebra National Park:
Top tips for twitchers – where to find certain birds:
Rooiplaat Loop for larks and pipits.
Kranskop Loop for mountain birds.
Thickets of the Wilgerboom River for the smaller birds and seedeaters.
The northern plains for the blue korhaan and the bustards.
The southern mountainous parts for the raptors: look out for Verraux's eagle, booted eagle and martial eagle.
For two 'specials' - the Drakensberg rockjumper and ground woodpecker - walk the 3-day guided trail or stay overnight in the mountain cottages.”
Bird checklist for Mountain Zebra National Park
Beware of lion sign at one of the viewpoints where you can exit your car
Striped Mouse
Activities in the park
Apart from relaxing and amusing yourself watching mice and birds in the rest camp there are plenty of activities to do.
A viewpoint at one of the self-drive trails
Self-drive Game drives
Our three nights and two days consisted of driving on as many of the road as possible through this Nama Karoo Biome. Although arid, it is not as dry as other parts of the Karoo.
It is a mountainous area and some of the roads are steep, although in good condition. Some are tarred and others are sandy grit.
We did not tire of the beautiful vistas over rolling plains and mountain plateaus. That alone is enough reason to visit the park. At times misty clouds rolled over the hills and through the gorges of the protective mountains providing dramatic scenes.
We saw a number of wildlife during our drives although the lion and cheetah were elusive.
Keep your eyes open for the little creatures as well. Look out for meerkat, ground squirrel and mongoose colonies scattered throughout the park.
Meerkats or suricates
Ground Squirrels
Mongooses
Guided Game drives
We chose not to do a guided game drive, although these can be quite educational. It is very easy to find your way around the park and we enjoy driving at our leisure. We were provided with a map.
Guided Hikes
One can book a park guide to hike to a shelter and view rock paintings from about 300 years ago although a fence protects the site and you can only see the rock art from a metre or two away. A certain level of fitness is required for the walk.
Guided Cheetah tracking
Book a guided tour to search for cheetahs. Once a signal is found on a collared cheetah, you will set out on foot to get a closer look at this beautiful cat. It is essential to book in advance, wear good walking shoes and a sun hat. It is advisable to take drinking water and a set of binoculars.
4x4 Trails
We drove two of the 4x4 trails. No booking is necessary but only 4x4 vehicles may be used on the trails. The Umgeni trail is the most challenging but Juriesdam and Sonnerust trails are comparatively easy with a couple of short steep sections and a few rocky areas.
The trails can be closed at times for maintenance or in the event of wet and muddy conditions. The trails will allow you to see different parts of the park where a sedan car cannot get to.
Amble along two trails in the rest camp
Imbila and Black Eagle trail are two short trails inside the rest camp where one can stroll without a guide. A breathtaking view over the rest camp is visible from the trails.
Short hike in the rest camp
If historical towns are more your thing, find accommodation in Cradock:
Chalets at the rest camp
Picnic areas
There are two lovely picnic areas outside of the main rest camp for residents and day visitors – Fonteinkloof and Weltevrede. Fonteinkloof has a swimming pool and both have braai/barbeque facilities with picnic tables. There are toilets at both sites as well.
“Interesting Facts about Mountain Zebra National Park
The Park is home to the largest population of Cape Mountain Zebra in the world.
The number of cheetah translocated to other Parks and reserves makes Mountain Zebra National Park the most significant contributor of cheetah to the Cheetah Metapopulation Project in South Africa.
The “Big Rock” that rolled down the mountain in 1974 weighs about 22 tonnes and left a scar that is still visible from the rest camp today.
Thirteen red data plant species are found in the park.
“The Story of an African Farm” was filmed at Doornhoek Guesthouse.
Snow fell in the Rest camp in 2012.”
Historic snippets
Late Stone Age tribes, San bushmen, Voortrekker farmers and British colonial soldiers have all roamed this area and left their mark. The park is rich in history and culture although not all of it is visible.
About that Big Rock that scarred the mountain…
After heavy rainfall in 1974 there was a rumble like thunder in the park. In fact it could be heard 12 kilometres away in Cradock. The noise that continued for about half an hour and didn’t quite sound quite like thunder, eventually stopped.
I am not sure what was discovered first, the scar or the rock, but an estimated 22-ton dolerite rock had rolled down the Bankberg Mountain into its final resting place at the foot of the mountain. In its wake it left a 250-metre scar that is still visible today. I would not have liked to stand in its path.
It is known as the Scar of Grootkloof.
Scar of Grootkloof - Bankberg - Mountain Zebra National Park
Playing chess on the mountain
Saltpeterkop Chessboard
Whilst hiding out during the Anglo-Boer War in the 1800’s, British soldiers etched a chess board on a flat slab of rock at the top of Saltpeterkop, a 1514-metre-high hill in the park. They transmitted moves by means of a mirror, officially meant to be used for communicating warning signals, to soldiers at the old fort in Cradock.
Legend has it that a farmer, unknown to the soldiers, whilst sitting on his stoep at his farmhouse in a valley below, intercepted the signals and started his own game against the soldiers.
The etched board and names of some privates, corporals and a captain from the 5th Lancashire Fusiliers and the Coldstream Guards is still visible today but is not accessible to visitors or only accessible with a guided tour.
Is it worth going to Mountain Zebra National Park?
Apart from the entrance to the park the roads are in good condition. As with any of the SANParks we have been to there are monkey problems, and Mountain Zebra is no exception. Maintenance is necessary in some areas but our overall impression was good.
The scenic mountainous landscape is outstanding in this picturesque area in the Karoo. The night skies are completely unpolluted.
I would return to Mountain Zebra Park in the blink of an eye but I do hope they improve the first section of gravel road. So did we get in and out unscathed? Apart from one raw egg cracking in our freezer and messing a bit, we were one of the lucky ones. Thankfully we have an off-road caravan which can take some jarring.
Although we had monkeys around us continuously in the rest camp, they never took anything as we tried to be constantly alert when preparing food. We also made sure the food was packed away soon afterwards. Others weren’t lucky:
One couple had a freshly baked bread ready for lunch. The wife’s instructions to her husband, ‘guard it with your life’ (while she quickly answered the call of nature)! He was NOT going to let anyone pull a smart one on him and sat outside their caravan with his back to the door ready to pounce on any snatching monkey that was going to amble past. Unperturbed, a monkey sneaked in from behind, through the gap between his chair and the open door which was just big enough to slip through. Need I say more? SWAMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) was not happy!
Where is Mountain Zebra National Park?
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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